Athens gets a bad rap. “It’s dirty.” “There’s nothing
interesting there except the Acropolis.” “What an ugly city.”
These were all warnings I heard before I visited. But this historic,
sun-washed city held far more charms than I’d anticipated.
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| Views of the Acropolis from the Plaka. |
As with any city, ancient Athens has its less attractive
neighborhoods, but there is plenty to like about it—and I’m not talking about
just the Acropolis. No, there are plenty of reasons Athens is worth a stay much
longer than a day.
For starters, well, there is that Acropolis thing. And don’t shortchange it. To do it
properly, you’ll need a full morning or afternoon (and a guide). And if it’s a
warm day, water. Another tip: ancient
marble that has seen the soles of millions of feet becomes slippery. So watch
your step (most of which are uneven, incidentally), but be sure to relish the fact
that you’re treading upon ancient stones that have witnessed the birth of democracy,
Plato’s oratories, and visits by Alexander the Great. If visiting the Acropolis
is the only thing you do in Athens, you’ll find that it was worth the trip.
At the foot of the Acropolis is Dionysos, a restaurant with
expansive terraces that just happen to have amazing views of, well, the
Acropolis. If anything beats the experience of climbing around the ancient
marbles of the ruins, it’s viewing it all from a short distance away.
In the shadow of the Acropolis, the architecturally stunning
New Acropolis Museum straddles excavated ancient ruins. All three levels stacked
above the ancient foundation are loaded with statuary, busts, ceramics, mosaics
and a rich assortment of artifacts from the Acropolis and nearby sites. After
you’ve taken in the art and history, reward yourself with food and drink on the
museum’s rooftop terrace which provides difficult-to-digest views of the Acropolis.
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| View of the Acropolis from Dionysos. |
Maybe it’s just me, but after studying the Acropolis in college and pining to make a pilgrimage for dozens of years, I couldn’t get enough of the vistas of the ancient temple’s gleaming white marble columns rising high above the city. Interestingly, the more ouzo or wine you consume, the easier the jaw-dropping view is to digest.
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| Greek-made ceramics from Dexipos and Green Thumbs on Aiolou Street. |
While owls have ascended to hipster icon status during the
past decade or so in the States, they’ve always been hip in Greece—well, for a mere
few millennia, anyway. Symbol of Athena, Athen’s namesake, the owl is more
common in this country than a Cubs hat in Chicago. If you’re into owls (or even
if you’re not), you’ll find a rich assortment of the handcrafted variety in
wood, ceramic, and stone at many shops. My favorites were at Dexipos Art
Gallery—which I’ll get to next.
Like any city that attracts crowds of tourists, Athens has a
lot of shops stuffed with unremarkable souvenirs and crafts, some even sporting
labels that read “Made in China”. My favorite, Dexipos, is located deep in the
Plaka, the oldest section of the city, and just above the ancient Roman Agora which
lies in the shadows of the Acropolis. The gallery’s crowded rooms are crammed
with a wide variety of ceramics, paintings and sculptures—from 15 euro owls to
$6,000 ceramic versions of the Trojan horse that are the size of a small car. This
is the perfect spot to find unique souvenirs and gifts that are hand-crafted
and made in Greece. After you’ve finished shopping, visit one of the nearby
sidewalk cafes that offer some shade, cold drinks, and views of the Acropolis
above or the ruins of the Roman Agora below.
If you’re in Athens for a quick trip and don’t have time to
visit one of Greece’s famed islands, you can enjoy a bit of their atmosphere just
half an hour’s drive from the city center. My favorite was Astir (25 euro
entry), a private crescent beach set within an inlet guarded by rocky bluffs.
It offers well-groomed sand, umbrellas, comfy lounges, crystalline water—and
food and beverage service. And if you’re interested in sea views but not a
beach, head to Ithaki, a fine aerie-like restaurant situated above the cove.
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| Astir Beach. |
Looking for the perfect spot for a final night’s dinner?
Check out Première which sits atop the non-descript
Hotel InterContinental. Michelin-starred and offering creative takes on
traditional Greek foods and ingredients, Première boasts—what
else?—views of the Acropolis. Particularly when the weather’s warm and the
expansive terrace’s lounge areas and dining areas are open, this is the perfect
spot for great food and drinks and a final view of the Acropolis.
For more information or to book tours for groups or individuals, contact Greek Link at info@greeklink.gr
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| A street in the Plaka and the Roman Agora. |
